The Easy Way to Tour South America Lazy dad, hyper mum, four kids (one in nappies) tour South America for 6 months

The Easy Way to Tour South America

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Iguazus and landing in Florianopolis

Floripa beachOur first missed flight.

We had flown into Iguazu in Argentina from Buenos Aires, and a week later were due to fly out of Iguazu to Floripa (which is three syllables easier to write than Florianopolis and apparently acceptable) via Sao Paolo. Iguazu’s airport is small and about half an hour drive from our hotel. Two hours to get there and check in should be plenty. Paola pops off into town to reclaim for an earlier diverted flight and do some shopping, and I finish the packing. A panicked Paola reappears with the news that while in the airline office, the person she was talking to casually let slip in to the conversation that there are no international flights from Iguazu in Argentina.

At this point, for those not in the know, I should highlight a small, but somewhat essential detail. There is also an Iguazu town on the Brazilian side of the falls. The Brazilian Iguazu also has its own Iguazu airport. And there is obviously a border crossing between the respective Iguazus in Argentina and in Brazil.

So the cabbie’s incidental comment alerts us to the fact that our flight is actually from Iguazu in Brazil. To add to the challenge, Brazil is an hour ahead of Argentina, and so the flight is to leave in one hour, not two.

Those of you who know I am Palestinian (albeit one flavoured with South London) may imagine that I should be more than averagely equipped to deal with checkpoints that delay you in a short trip from ‘A’ to ‘A and a bit’. And this checkpoint would be bereft of the gruffness and violence of the Israeli military. Unlike those that segment the West Bank, however, this was one we weren’t expecting to cross. And so, new tickets purchased via Rio, we land in Floripa about six hours later than planned. Late enough to find that the hostel we’d booked fairly last minute was designed for twenty two year old pot smoking travellers with an aversion to washing and a love of cockroaches. Ever resourceful, Paola walks across the road, and convinces a lady who had not yet truly opened her hostel to let us in at midnight, and so way past the eleventh hour we end up in a small but pleasant apartment in Floripa.

Floripa will be proposing a new sport to the International Olympic Committee this year, and we were privileged to see it in action when we walked out of the apartment the next morning as a man floated past us on a skateboard holding a beach umbrella as a sail. With a skateboard riding dog. Not a form of transport I’d seen for going into the City in London. Or anywhere else, for that matter.

And then, around the corner, into a shop to buy some buckets, spades and a ball from a shop which it turns out is owned by a man from Gaza. I guess if you are unable to make money at home on the beach, you find a beach where you can and set up there. Two Palestinians meeting unexpectedly in Brazil rarely makes for a quick conversation, and so Paola goes to 73 different shops, checking in on me after each one with increasing frustration, gets her hair done as well as three of the kids, buys, writes and posts postcards to everyone we know in Twickenham, takes a class in baking typical Brazilian bread, and makes loaves to feed the hungry hoardes, gets her hair cut again as it has grown long in the interim, sees our two eldest children through university by which time the Gazan and I have moved on to reminiscing about 1948. There are 7 decades still to catch up on, but with the threat of divorce hovering over me, I decide to call it a day, and we leave with the ball and beachware as gifts, Suleiman in true Palestinian style refusing to take payment.

I think I will like Florianopolis.

One Response to Iguazus and landing in Florianopolis

  1. Daniel says:

    What a great story. Happy to hear you guys found shelter late, how do you guys keep your cool in front of your kids? I’d be ging mad!

    It was nice to read about you running into a fellow Palestinian. Even if shrouded in a bit of humor, I can tell that was a special experience for you.

    Continue to enjoy your adventure and don’t stop writing! 🙂

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logs-rocks-and-togetherness

Logs, rocks and togetherness

Once more into the abyss …

In 22 years of knowing Paola, we have never spent so much time together. Neither have our children all ever spent so much time as intensely and exclusively with each other or with us. That has not just meant us getting to know each other better, but it has further shaped our relationships.

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Nowhere is that more evident or enjoyable than in watching the children play with each other. For sure, the intimacy has meant that they have learnt how to more effectively annoy each other, and the amount of time we have had together has also ensured that they have ample opportunities to do so. But watching them inventing and playing games for the four of them is a joy.

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As we played at a stream at the bottom of a waterfall just off El Chalten in Argentinian Patagonia, there was a set of stones and a fallen tree which allowed for a precarious crossing of the stream. Our two eldest, Omar and Alvaro, shot across while the younger two at 3 and 4 years old could only watch in vain hope of joining in.

Omar and Alvaro as Sherpas

Sherpas Omar and Alvaro

Not so vain, it turns out, as a delicate, determined and tender operation was started by the older two to get their younger siblings across the stream. There was much hand-holding, pointing, guiding of where to put feet. At a couple of points, there was the lifting and passing of a young one carried between one older brother and the other. Omar and Alvaro got them across and all played on the other side. I found the care and attention to keeping their little brother and sister happy incredibly moving. And no one took a bath. It is something I hope stays with them as siblings for all their lives.

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Although we have got to know many places on this trip, we’ve probably gained the most knowledge of each other. I am incredibly grateful for this trip. But more than that, grateful to Paola, Omar, Alvaro, A and T for making it so much fun.

And for making my life so full.

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The photos here are not about the places we’ve been to. They are just us in some family shots we liked.

Mexico

Cuba

Costa Rica

Ecuador

Peru

Bolivia

Argentina

Uruguay

Chile

Brazil (incomplete!)

One Response to Logs, rocks and togetherness

  1. Tomás Coria says:

    Hola! Que lindo encontrar su blog y ver tantos momentos, lugares y personas… Pasamos navidad juntos en el hostel de Buzios, y la verdad lo único que me hizo olvidar a mi familia, fueron ustedes, la cara de esos niños y la tranquilidad, paciencia y amabilidad de ustedes! Los felicito y seguramente son ejemplo para mucha gente, por lo menos para mí.
    Saludos y cariños desde Argentina!

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some-things-ive-learned-in-this-trip

Some things I’ve learned in this trip

These are some things that I have become more viscerally intimate with as we have gone through this trip. They are mine, and I write them here as a reference to come back to. Feel free if you read this to remind me if you see me blatantly disregarding them. I hope they may provoke some (positive) thoughts for someone else. They certainly did for me.

  • The easiest way to do something big is to start.
  • No amount of promotions or pay rises will ever buy back time with my kids as they form, or with myself as I explore.
  • Experiences over possessions (nearly) always.
  • ‘Someday’ never happens, but tomorrow comes sooner than I think.
  • Nature is far more beautiful and fragile than I ever imagined it to be.
  • This is only a once in lifetime trip in my life so far.
  • Not to be arrogant enough to overlook the ways in which my children live as examples to me.
  • Big waves are big fun. And can knock your teeth out.
  • When communication is difficult, humour always works. Except when it doesn’t. Then I just look like a twat 🙂

There is so much to say behind each of these in terms of how this trip made these points to me, and where they can be applied. Reading them quickly as a list rather than each individually and thinking about it does each one an injustice. But I will leave them as they are and go into 2012 hoping I remember to live them through the year.

Thank you to anyone who has followed this blog – it’s not quite over yet. If you have read any of this and feel the vibe, please leave a comment with your thoughts.

Happy 2012 to you all. We wish you all full hearts and health.

Paola, Iyas and family

My family striking the most famous Palestinian pose.

12 Responses to Some things I’ve learned in this trip

  1. Ben Brabyn says:

    Thanks for taking us on your journey, and for distilling it for us into these sage words!

    I particularly like your last point – humour is probably the single most important life-skill. And there’s time for plenty of “once-in-a-lifetime”s in each lifetime too.

    Most of all, though I think your number one point is a great challenge to us all – to get started!

    Happy 2012 and beyond…

    • iyas says:

      There were many adjectives that featured in our doing this trip. Stupid was quite high. Foolhardy was there, along with another that shared the same initial. Sage never featured, so thank you Ben!

  2. Daniel says:

    Thank you for taking the time to write and sharing as much and as candidly as you have.

    This list is good. I see a few that I resonate with. In particular, the ‘no amount of compensation makes up for lost time with children as they form, and experience over possessions.

    Very happy for you and your family. May you have more once-in-a-life moments like these.

    Ps – that last caption made me laugh out loud (literally) hehe

    • iyas says:

      Daniel. Thank you so much for following and keeping a dialogue – really appreciated it. Now plan yours and get going 🙂 See you soon??? In Havana…

  3. Anni says:

    Hi Iyas

    Just spent the last part of my afternoon reading your entire blog – it was really great and inspirational, it looks like you’ve had a blast… now where’s my rucksack???

    Anni

    • iyas says:

      I hope there was plenty of drinking in the first part of your afternoon to help add mirth to the reading experience! thank you Anni. It was a blast. And you only get the rucksack when the flight is booked 🙂

  4. Kate Takes 5 says:

    Oh I love this. And I really must read this whole blog sometime soon btu right now I am taking my first step of my ‘something big’ and so am supposed to be writing not reading..

    I also like your last one. I bet your wife helped you to realise that particular life lesson 😉

    • iyas says:

      Yes, she did help. Though it was mainly of the laughing at, not with, variety.

      Hope you’ve started your something big. I make it around 1700 words a day if you do every day. And it’s all about starting. Oh, and sticking with it. Every day. For 30 days.

  5. I love your list, but particularly the easiest way to do something big is to start, and ‘Someday’ never happens, but tomorrow comes sooner than you think.
    I can also imagine how your trip really made you appreciate nature. It took me ages to learn that first one: that if only I would start something that would take me closer to achieving bigger things.

  6. Mama Syder says:

    Fabulous list, especially the ‘tomorrow comes sooner than you think’ one x

    • iyas says:

      Thank you! It’s funny and refreshing how each one of us finds different points of resonance depending on our life’s experience. Loved yours as well, by the way!

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